Capri Guide, Part 1: Where to stay & swim.

The one where I tell you which Instagram-famous beach club to avoid.

The short version:

Capri is gorgeous and worth visiting, but it can be hectic so you need to have a strategy. I like the proximity to Rome. It’s just 70 minutes by fast train to Naples. From there, you taxi to the ferry pier, then take a hydrofoil, and voila, you are have arrived. Capri still has a vintage feeling and its main piazza (piazzetta, actually) has incredible people-watching from cocktail hour until late at night. There’s a lot to say about how to make the most of the island, so today’s newsletter will just focus on general tips, hotel and AirBnB recommendations, and beach clubs. That’s enough to get you started on booking something now. A follow-up newsletter will cover restaurant recommendations, things to do when not at the beach (gardens, hikes, gelato, a perfumery, an evocative monastery with a courtyard that smells of sage when the summer sun warms the garden up… just heavenly), and advice on ferries. Warning: Hotels are booking up for summer, so be sure to see my AirBnB recommendations. These specific places still have summer availability and they offer great value.

All the details: 

Capri is an object lesson in one of the most valuable travel skills: learning to make magic out of your situation no matter what. 

The island is a dream destination for many, but a headache for others. Its popularity overwhelms it at times. If you go as a day-tripper, it’s possible you’ll never come back. Why? Because the arrival is less than glamorous and the island is crowded in the daytime. If you don’t have a strategy to avoid crowds, they will be a source of irritation. The main port, Marina Grande, is hard-working and a little gritty. You will be surrounded by people jostling to make their way to the funicular or to a taxi to get into the heart of Capri. But if you approach a day trip with the right plan, or if you stay on the island for a few nights or a week, you’ll find magic in Capri. 

Keep in mind that the chaos of Capri is fairly concentrated to just a few areas like the main port, the busses, and the very center of Capri. Once you navigate those areas and go farther afield, you will find places that feel wild and shrubby. I once hiked past a small house that kept chickens. I just didn’t expect that in Capri, a place with a Prada store near a gelato shop.

Let’s start with some advice on booking hotels or AirBnBs.

It’s important to manage expectations about many hotels in Italy, but particularly in Capri. I’ll recommend hotels and AirBnBs at various price points below.

Better hotels will be lovely and require no disclaimer. The same cannot be said for budget hotels or some AirBnBs, however. Many places on the island could use some sprucing up, to be quite honest. For me: I either want something very good or very budget. Overpaying for the middle drives me nuts. For example, last summer I booked late and didn’t have many good options left. I found an AirBnB that I thought had a lot of “nonna” charm. It had that “Grandma died and we inherited this place and now it’s a summer cash cow” energy. Faded glory. It was perfectly clean, comfortable, had A/C but it was decidedly NOT fancy. But the price was right. For me, I preferred this. I wanted to spend less on my hotel so I could spend on beach clubs, lunches with million-dollar views, and great dinners each night. All of this is to say: If you won’t be in your hotel much on Capri, don’t overspend here *unless* you are booking a very special trip. Prioritize spending on boats, food, and fun. I’ll also add this friendly reminder to alleviate the pressure of booking a high-end place: a lot of people with means have means because they are selective about when and how they splurge. So let this reassure you that you can still have an amazing experience on Capri without spending $800+ a night on a hotel. 

Here is where I would stay at all price ranges:

Higher-end:

Hotel Punta Tragara: This iconic hotel overlooks the famous Faraglioni rocks. Views, plus a pool and great restaurant. A splurge. Summer rates start at $2,000/night. 

La Scalinatella. Located about ten minutes by foot from the main square, this hotel has a pool and views toward Marina Piccola. The white stucco building is old-school Capri. An elegant, classic choice. Summer rates start at $890/night. Quite booked for this summer already, but look at shoulder season dates in May and Sept/Oct.  

Grand Hotel Quisisana: A classic. A short stroll downhill from the main piazzetta. Continue walking down the same pedestrian street and you reach Certosa, and farther on, the most incredible viewpoint on the island. Summer rates start at $1000+/night. Quite booked for this summer already, but look at shoulder season dates in May and Sept/Oct.  

JK Place Capri: Impeccable design. This is a beautiful hotel with views over Marina Grande. Because of its position, you have to take the funicular or a taxi up to the main piazza for good shopping, restaurants, and cafes. Worth the effort. Spring/shoulder season rates start at $998/night. 

Mid-price but great: 

La Minerva. An absolute gem. Family owned. Beautiful small pool surrounded by beautiful landscaping and a lawn. Light lunches served outside in a small pergola. Breakfast/cocktail terrace with a view. A ten minute walk from the main piazzetta. Book early, it sells out very quickly. Double deluxe rooms with a sea view in low season are $490 to $850, and high season can range from $550 to $1150. 

The pool at La Minerva.

AirBnBs I would book (including my budget recommendations):

THIS AirBnB, suitable for a couple, is brand new and the interiors are smart and stylish. It also features a private rooftop. Anne would like to rent this out for a 1 week minimum, but she reached out to me offering to rent for a shorter period. It’s worth trying to book with her whatever days you desire because the listing is new, the price is very good, and she has availability all summer. Keep in mind this AirBnB is on the Anacapri side of the island. I like it a lot; for me, staying on this side means it’s easier to get to Lido del Faro each day. You can easily visit the main piazzetta in Capri (for people-watching, shopping, designer stores, cocktail hour, etc) by taking a taxi or bus from the heart of Anacapri, which is just about 5 minutes on foot from this apartment. 

THIS AirBnB is not fancy, but it has everything you need. It’s very comfortable, and it’s literally a 2 min walk to Marina Piccola. It’s also right by the stop for the little buses that serve the island. It features a patio with a peek-a-boo view of the ocean, perfect for having coffee or dinners outside. If you know you want to be at a beach almost every day, this is a great option; when you stay up in Capri near the piazzetta or in the Matermania area, you have to make your way into the center, wait in line for a bus, and then make your way to the beach. The bus lines can get quite long. At this house you can walk to the free and pay beaches of Marina Piccola directly. No bus commute to your sun spot. You can also walk to organized beach clubs, or you can pay a small fee to take the water taxi to Fontelina or Da Luigi. I really like this option. (More on beaches below.) When you want to go into town from here, you have easy access to the bus, but you will want to time it off peak hours to avoid lines.

I haven’t stayed HERE, but based on the review and the photos I would not hesitate to book. (Note: If you have mobility issues, this may not be the house for you. Porters will not take luggage to this house, so heavy packers may also want to avoid.) This review says it all:

“The house will blow your mind. A very honest place with the most amazing view, a lot of outdoor privacy, direct and private access to the beach. We were informed in advance by the host about the most important things, were welcomed very warmly and got all the support we asked for in the blink of an eye. There are so many people on the island in August - but you won't notice when you stay in this remote beauty. There is just absolutely no reason not to go there.”

I am still seeing availability as of today (this newsletter was published 28 Jan 2023). 6 nights for $3562 or $593/night in June. 2 bedrooms, 1 bath. 

Beach clubs: 

I’m going to assume you are here for the sea, so let’s talk about the best way to swim and lay out in the sun. I have two favorite beach clubs and one I recommend avoiding: 

Lido del Faro.

Lido del Faro is my favorite. I first heard about this place when I was at Da Luigi, a different beach club that I also recommend below. I overheard two young women asking the waiter where he likes to swim and he immediately replied, “Lido del Faro. It’s the best.” Recommending a competitor is a strong endorsement, so I made a point to go the next day. I’ve never looked back. It takes some effort to get here and it’s less well-known than other places. As a result, the clientele is discerning and well-behaved (which for me primarily means, no loud voices). As for setting, it’s remote and incredible. You get sunset views, as this is on the west side of the island. You can spend all say here to make the most of your time and money. Entry is about $80 and it includes a $35 lunch credit. (Pricing is still to be updated for the season, so check their website.) The water is clean and boat traffic keeps its distance. The people-watching is terrific. Kids at the nearby free beach jump from a mid-height rock formation. Very daring (mostly) young men occasionally climb a much higher rock formation and dive in. A video or photo of this will be your best souvenir. The whole place is ultra civilized. You’ll have access to changing rooms, towel service, and attentive coffee/drink service to your chair. If you don’t want to pay an entry fee, the free beach is right next to the club and it has very good energy. Bring your own towel and snacks. There is also a snack bar/cafe just a one minute walk up the hill behind you. Booking ahead is essential and you can do it online HERE. You can even select which area you prefer to sit in.

Catching rays and some salt spray at Lido del Faro.

A note: As mentioned, you do have to make a small effort to get there. You can catch the Staiano-operated bus for Faro in the bus area in Anacapri. Or you can pay a taxi to take you. If you are already staying in Anacapri, just take the bus. If you are staying closer to the center of Capri, you may want pay for a taxi to get to Lido del Faro. Spend to save time. You don’t want to take 2 buses to get there. 

Da Luigi

Da Luigi. I like this experience in Marina Piccola. First, I will do basically anything to take a boat ride, and unless you want to hike in, you have to take a water taxi to Da Luigi. As their website explains: “Da Luigi has a small private jetty and offers a shuttle boat from the Canzone del Mare, a beach club with jetty in Marina Piccola managed by the same family. You can use the boat shuttle service both for arrival and departure, but we recommend using it especially at the end of the day to avoid having to walk back up the cliffside.” You can make a reservation here but only with lunch reservations, as well. Otherwise, go early or early-ish and just book a sun lounger upon arrival. Entrance with deck chair is $30/each. Add $12 for an umbrella, and $10 if you need to rent a towel. A sunbed is called a “lettino,” FYI. That’s what you want to rent (instead of a chair).

The foam sun loungers at La Fontelina are a no for me.

La Fontelina. The Capri beach club you see most often on Instagram is Fontelina and I do not recommend it. It’s crowded, not great for swimming, and has too many influencers influencing. And worst of all, if you don’t rent a proper chair, you rent a flimsy foam mattress covered in a sheet-like fabric. It’s like spending the day on a futon. Please go to Da Luigi which is to the left of La Fontelina as you face the sea. Or better, go to Lido del Faro. That said, the umbrellas are gorgeous and the whole scene does make a good photo. I won’t judge you if you go, but treat yourself to a nice lunch to make up for La Fontelina’s shortcomings.

Lastly, the free beaches: You can access free beaches at Marina Grande (I don’t recommend) and Marina Piccola, which is fun for a quick dip and is also is good later in the evening when it’s less crowded.

Capri Guide, Part 2 coming soon.

I’ll publish the second part of the Capri guide soon with info on best things to do when not at the beach, restaurant recommendations, and practical info on luggage and arrival by ferry. Please be sure to sign up for a paid subscription to get all the details in that guide. This guide was free to all subscribers as a thank you for all of the new sign ups. Please forward this to a friend. See you next time!