The terrace at the Splendido, Portofino.
The Amsterdam guide arrives tomorrow, but in the meantime I thought I would send a quick newsletter about favorite films to shove into your eyeballs to help you dream of spring - specifically in Italy. After the movie recommendations, I list four Italian AirBnBs that I think you will really love, including an actual tower you can rent near Montepulciano. So dreamy.
I watch this one every year when it’s still too cold to plant anything, but sunny enough to make me wish I were on an Italian coast as things begin to bloom. This film is an Italy-obsessed person’s Wizard of Oz. It’s a charming period film about Londoners who leave sad, gray England to arrive in Ligura on a stormy night and wake the next morning at their cliffside Italian hotel to a gorgeous view of the deep blue sea. Shenanigans ensue, and the women who tried to run away from their men can’t seem to quite shake them off. If you liked Downton Abbey you will love this. Great performances from an all-star cast of British acting legends. Everyone delights, but Polly Walker’s turn as chic Caroline Dester will have you wanting to dye your hair black, chop it off, and put on a flapper dress immediately.
The main character of every Luca Guadagnino film is usually the setting. You may have seen his most famous, Call Me By Your Name, but I Am Love is absolutely worth your time. Tilda Swinton stars as an elegant woman who has married into a wealthy Italian family and struggles to find herself within the rigid expectations of class and motherhood. She finds herself attracted to a most surprising character and this compulsion takes her to an adventure outside of Milan and into the hills above San Remo. Stunning scenery and very beautiful rich-Milan-lady costumes. If your heart doesn’t burst the last three minutes of this film are you even living?? One of the best film scores I can remember. Gentle sounds building to a beating, throbbing “GO LIVE YOUR DREAMS” finale. Whew! So good.
Sure one of the stars has cannibal fantasies, but who doesn’t have a weird kink? If you haven’t already seen this movie please hurry up. Filmed in northern Italy, specifically Crema, this movie makes you want to quit your job, move to small-town Italy, and buy a bike. And maybe a peach.
Ok, this is a series, not a movie. If Enchanted April had a baby with Downton Abbey but added art and political intrigue, it would be this easy-going, low-stakes, but entirely fun TV series. Iconic Portofino shots were filmed on location, but most of the interior and town scenes were filmed in the coastal town Opatija, Croatia. Season two has already been ordered, so dive in. There will be more.
Where to book:
There’s still time to book Italy if you are willing to look at shoulder season availability. Here are some places inspired by these films:
There are no bargains in Portofino. THIS AirBnB is $437/night in late April, but with a view like this, it seems worth the price for a night or two as you tour this beautiful stretch of the Ligurian coast - especially if you don’t feel like spending $3000+ per night for a sea-view room at the nearby Belmond.
THIS place in Bagno Vignoni looks like an absolute dream…. Only $265/night in September. The reviews are incredible.
How about stunning valley views from the top of beautiful Montepulicano HERE? Only $150 a night in late September.
Why not stay HERE in an ancient tower overlooking a valley and in walking distance of a charming town? $325 a night in June (shocked there is still availability in high season, to be honest). 11 perfect 5-star reviews including this note:
“This was such a unique property and an incredible experience. The title of the listing says it all... Luxurious Medieval Tower & Private Concierge. Our experience from start to finish was fantastic. The weeks prior to arriving, Leonie & Nicco made multiple recommendations, reservations and arrangements for us; amazing restaurants, wine tasting, truffle hunt, cooking class. All were fantastic leaving us with a lifetime of memories that we'll forever be grateful for.”
Stay warm and dream of spring! See you tomorrow when I share all my favorite spots in Amsterdam.