Ghent, Belgium: If Amsterdam and Bruges had a baby?
Add this city to your next Amsterdam or Paris trip.
Ghent in a nutshell: Ghent has the modern energy of a design-y city like Amsterdam, but all the charm of Bruges. Ghent is head-spinning in this way. On the same day you can: visit a castle built in 1180, see what some art historians argue is “the first great oil painting,” visit one of the best contemporary art museums in Europe, or possibly attend a Charlotte Adigery concert at Viernulvier. The mix of old & new, plus the fact that it’s more than just a giant tourist shop, makes Ghent a perfect small town.
Let’s get into it:
I planned an entire trip to Ghent because of one hotel. It’s in a gorgeous, decommissioned post office. I had already been to Bruges, a city many people know either from the film or just by reputation as a beautiful little town. So when I planned to visit Ghent just to stay at this handsome, well-decorated, linen-clad boutique hotel, I figured that if Ghent was less than exciting, I could use it as a base and spend my days in Bruges, just a 30 minute train ride away. My expectations for Ghent were way too low. I prefer Ghent to Bruges, and maybe even prefer it over Amsterdam now.
To give you a sense of this small city, let me start by saying this: I think of France as a pretty country, and I think of Belgium (and the Netherlands) as a handsome country. Both are equally stunning if you fix your gaze at the right thing, but each is a different kind of beauty. I love Dutch/Flemish architecture. Those stepped-gable roofs are charming and distinct. The heart of Ghent (and the hotel I love so much) is right along the bank of its main canal. Ghent has that great “on the canal” energy you like about the prettiest parts of Amsterdam, but its size makes it very approachable and, frankly, more relaxing. You will see some day trippers, mostly other Europeans. But Ghent isn’t often visited by Americans; I think that’s because we generally only have time to focus on main cities (Amsterdam, Brussels, Antwerp), and maybe Bruges.
Here’s my case for Ghent. If you take my advice, you will be staying in the best, chicest hotel in Ghent. When you’re in Paris you walk by Hôtel de Crillon and there is some part of you that knows, “I will never stay there because I do not have Beyoncé money.” It’s a bit deflating to know that even if you’re in, say, the $600/night Hotel Chateau Voltaire, by comparison to the excesses of the high-end of Paris, you’re still in a “budget” hotel. But in Ghent you’ll be cheered to know you’re in the best place in town. (Details below.)
The hotel has amazing room choices. Even the tiniest room is perfect. You make absolutely zero compromise by choosing the most frugal option. But if you want to splurge a bit, they have loft and tower rooms which feature a terrace or two-level room with generous sitting area. Really lovely. In Paris the hotel would cost twice as much. You’re going to get a lot for your money here.
Normally, I don’t take the hotel breakfast. This is an exception. The breakfast room/cocktail bar is the heart of the hotel. The breakfast spread is set out in a beautiful open kitchen where eggs are made to order in a pretty little open kitchen. Every seat is lovely, but the early bird can select a table with a view of the canal.
When to go & how long to stay:
You need a minimum of two nights but could spend a maximum of one week if you wanted to use Ghent as a base and take day trips to Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp.
Ghent is good any time of year. Sunny summer days are glorious. There is no shortage of outdoor cafe seating or canal-side bars and restaurants at which you can hang out in the sun and people-watch. Spring and summer will be busy, certainly. Ghent is less-known, but not unknown.
Fall and winter are fantastic. If you bundle up and prepare for wind (those windmills in the low countries exist for a reason), then you will be charmed by the coziness of rainy cobblestone streets. The city has a sophisticated lighting plan that casts a warm glow on all of its historic architecture at night. It’s dazzling. If you go mid-November through December 31, a major feature of your trip will certainly be eating, drinking, and generally making merry at Ghent and Bruges Christmas markets. The Bruges market is excellent. HERE is a good guide for what to expect. And if you want to see a video of a walk-through the market click HERE and skip to about seven minutes and 30 seconds in.