What to buy in Paris.

No berets, baby.

Bad souvenirs bum me out. Seeing people buy a beret in Paris or watching people buy a tin of Mariage Freres in a flavor they can buy back home seems to me like a waste of valuable space in their luggage. So here is what I like to buy, and most of these things you can really only get in Paris. A key exception is Buly. During the pandemic my only splurge was ordering boxes of their bath and body products. But I make an exception for buying Buly in Paris because the stores are extraordinary. From the interiors to the displays and even to the prim uniforms, Buly is always worth a stop.

TEA AND CONFECTIONS: 

I recommend skipping Mariage Freres for tea and going to Meert. The storefront, which is on a corner near Musee Picasso, is gorgeous. The interior is the adult candy shop of your dreams. You have so many good options here. I recommend their caramels, a chocolate candy filled with caramel called “Cats Tongues” (box above), the very slim and very sweet little gaufres (basically a waffle confection), and really amazing teas. 

PERFUMES, LOTIONS, BATH PRODUCTS 

At Buly, everything is wonderful, so go with your heart here. Over time I have run out of soaps and lotions to buy, so I have moved on to their assortment of combs. (When you have moved on to combs, life is good, honestly.) The hand lotions and the toothpastes are great. Be sure to buy the metal cap which has “feet” so that you can stand the tubes upright on your counter. The Buly location in upper Marais has a beautiful cafe. Check hours to make sure they are serving, but it’s well worth timing your visit to coincide with a hot drink.

VINTAGE, ANTIQUES, AND EPHEMERA

Of course you can visit the well-known giant flea market in Paris (well worth your time), but many people prefer the smaller bric-a-brac Porte de Vanves market. This is both wonderful and junky, a real treasure hunt. It’s open weekends year-round, but will be busier and have more vendors in warmer weather. Nevertheless, you can find something any time of year. I especially love finding great silverware, having purchased a set of Cristofle here. I’ve also had a lot of luck finding beautiful small paintings, a few in terrific gilt frames. There is also a seller who offers up interesting small glasses and a lot of weird small paper ephemera. If you like keeping a scrapbook of your travels, you can always find something here to paste in as a memento of your trip. I also found an incredible mirror here. You just never know what will be on offer. Go early. I am stressed if I am not there by 8am. Take the Metro there (it’s easy) and Uber or G7 back if you have too much to carry. You can find bubble wrap to protect your items for the return home at any Monoprix or Office Depot.

Astier de Villatte. Well-known to people who love charming, romantic interiors and table settings, there are two gorgeous locations in Paris and I always visit both. They design, manufacture, and sell incredible pottery: plates, vases, trays, and cups made of black clay finished in a white glaze. The shops also sell perfume, candles, incense, plus notebooks and other assorted pens, paper products, and other gifts. The stores are truly a destination. HERE is a video tribute to Paris, and to their shops and artisans. You can get some of these things back home by mail or at select boutiques in major US cities, but it’s nice to shop at the mothership(s). If you visit the one on Rue Saint-Honore, then be sure to have a coffee across the street at Verlet. Unfortunately, it can be stressful to buy anything larger than a plate because they pack it with so much paper that it will take up a lot of space in your suitcase. For this reason, sometimes the best strategy is something smaller that you will use and touch every day. In this case, a tiny little tray for your jewelry to keep on a nightstand or bathroom counter is a great idea, or get one of their beautiful coffee cups or mugs. A little vase to use as a pencil cup on your desk is also a winner. 

BOOKS, POSTERS, ART

Ofr bookstore is a Paris institution. Brother and sister Aledandre and Marie Thumerelle have been running this place for over 20 years. When Bjork or Phoenix or Sofia Coppola or (RIP) Virgil Abloh or really any other creative person wants to launch something or just look for inspiration, they come here to browse, buy, and hang out with the Thumerelles. Key items here include the absolute best “if you know you know” Paris souvenir which is the classic Ofr tote bag. Additionally, they have postcards featuring images from the hundreds of events and publications they have produced and/or printed in the past. Up at the counter you can find smallish books that Ofr has commissioned friends to write, many about Paris or the French countryside. These books are about the real Paris, not the glossy stuff we see on instagram, and often include essays by friends about why they love the city. A favorite small Ofr publication is by two Americans who write about their move to Paris and how they designed and helped launch Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and other Paris nightlife/food/drink institutions. It’s a great story about having the guts to move across the world and try new things. In the back of Ofr is a gallery. The art and posters from past exhibitions are all on offer. This neighborhood has a ton of cafes up and down the street, so take time to enjoy. Around the corner is a terrific restaurant called Le Carreau. Marie Thumerelle eats here almost every day - - a strong endorsement.

EYEGLASSES & SUNGLASSES

There are so many optical shops in Paris, often with unique styles that are hard to find in the US. If you have a fairly standard prescription but don’t have your actual Rx in hand, you can just bring your glasses into the shop and they can “read” your lenses and make glasses for you within a few days. Anne & Valentin have the artiest frames. Worth the splurge! For cool non-prescription sunglasses, I love Rendel. They will insert standard sunglass lenses or you can select interesting ombre options in various colors.

What did I miss? Tell me what things you like to pick up in Paris that you can’t get back home.

Separately, if you want a great agenda for a low-key and very beautiful day in Paris, read my guide HERE.